Thursday, February 15, 2007
Kaliurang, a la Madam and Meneer Tour
In the early of the nineteenth century, some Dutch geologists living in Yogyakarta intended to find a place for their family to spend their vacation. They went along the edge of the north area as the high land. Arriving at Kaliurang that is located on 900 meter above sea level, the "meneers" were enchanted by the nature beauty and coolness in that foot of the mountain. They finally built bungalows and decided to make the area their place for vacation.
Nature Enchantment and Historical Buildings
The trip from Yogyakarta to Kaliurang reminds us of the scenery picture we (=Indonesian people) made in the kindergarten. A mountain with the street lying in the middle and the green spread on both sides ornamented with people's houses will release tiredness in the frame of nature painting.
Covered with the breeze, even when the sun is over our head, the coolness is still felt. The air dancing through the trees and slowly going down hill gives fresh feeling to our body.
The view of Merapi Mountain gives special sensation in this area. Just like village girls who will cover their face when we look at them, this mountain will also be covered with fog when we come to see it.
Going along the west side of Plawangan Hill as long as 1,100 meters, traveling cross country, through soil path framed with trees and green slopes, and series of 22 caves as the inheritance of the Japanese colonial are some uniqueness of Kaliurang natural tourism.
In addition to its natural beauty, Kaliurang also has some historical buildings. Some of them are Wisma Kaliurang and Pesanggrahan Dalem Ngeksigondo that is owned by the Sultan Palace that used to be functioned as the meeting place of the Three Nation Commission, and Ullen Sentalu museum which part of the building is under ground. This museum reveals the mystery of the culture and values of Javanese history, especially those related to the princess of Yogyakarta and Surakarta kingdoms in the nineteenth century.
Family Recreation Area
Located 28 kilometers from the center of Yogyakarta city, Kaliurang now has an enchanting cultural and natural tourism area that becomes en enjoyable place for family recreation.
Parents may relax while keeping their children playing in the Play Ground. In an area of 10,000 meter square width, children can play swing, sliding, or swimming in a mini pool. Besides, in the play ground that is ornamented with the statue of a genie a la 1001 night stories and some kinds of animal, children can play mini cars or pass through a dragon statue by entering from its mouth and exiting from its tail.
About 300 meters to the north east of the recreation garden, there is Plawangan Turgo garden. There is Tlogo Putri swimming pool of which water originates from a spring at the slope of Plawangan Hill. Playing swing or behaving playfully with the family in the garden will release tiredness among the green forest of the forestry department.
Walking along the east side, seeing some monkeys jumping and swinging on the branches, enjoying the chirp of birds in the sloping up path of layered stones and stairs as long as 900 meters can be a little tiring, but the top of Merapi Mountain viewed on a bright day from Pronojiwo Hill will replace the tiredness with admiration. On the way to the top of Pronojiwo Hill, YogYES had the opportunity to run race with Nick (47 years old), an English tourist. I won the race, but the feeling of being united with nature was more pleasant. Mineral water sold by the drink sellers will quench your thirst while seeing Merapi that stands amidst the green spread of the forest. Binocular is rent for IDR 3,000 per 30 minutes to see the Merapi Mountain more clearly.
Arriving back to the garden, have relax at Tlogo Muncar to enjoy the waterfall. During rainy season, water will flow down swiftly.
To enjoy the Kaliurang scenery, visitors may go around by a rabbit carriage that is most popularly called sepoer. This vehicle usually stands by in the parking lot in front of the food shops. The route is going around from the east to the west to encircle Kaliurang tourism area, passing through the viewing post on the west side where Merapi can be seen clearly on bright days. For minimum of seven people, each person will be charged IDR 3,000. For exclusive trip, the charge is IDR 20,000 per person with services like those for a nobleman.
If you want to enjoy the coolness of the air and the quietness of the night at Kaliurang, there are many choices of villas, bungalows, and inns. The tariffs vary from IDR 25,000 to IDR 300,000. Some lodgings where you can stay are: Bukit Surya (most recommended), Puri Indah Inn (3-stars), and Wisma Sejahtera.
Before leaving, make sure that you buy gifts ranging from local fruits to special food namely tahu and tempe bacem (sweet, fried tofu and tempeh) and jadah (made from sticky rice and grated coconut).
The green spread at the foot of Merapi Mountain, cool air and all natural, luxurious packages will release your tiredness and refresh you from the noise of the city.Borobudur
Who does not know Borobudur? This Buddhist temple has 1460 relief panels and 504 Buddha effigies in its complex. Millions of people are eager to visit this building as one of the World Wonder Heritages. It is not surprising since architecturally and functionally, as the place for Buddhists to say their prayer, Borobudur is attractive.
Borobudur was built by King Samaratungga, one of the kings of Old Mataram Kingdom, the descendant of Sailendra dynasty. Based on Kayumwungan inscription, an Indonesian named Hudaya Kandahjaya revealed that Borobudur was a place for praying that was completed to be built on 26 May 824, almost one hundred years from the time the construction was begun. The name of Borobudur, as some people say, means a mountain having terraces (budhara), while other says that Borobudur means monastery on the high place.
Borobudur is constructed as a ten-terraces building. The height before being renovated was 42 meters and 34.5 meters after the renovation because the lowest level was used as supporting base. The first six terraces are in square form, two upper terraces are in circular form, and on top of them is the terrace where Buddha statue is located facing westward. Each terrace symbolizes the stage of human life. In line with of Buddha Mahayana, anyone who intends to reach the level of Buddha's must go through each of those life stages.
The base of Borobudur, called Kamadhatu, symbolizes human being that are still bound by lust. The upper four stories are called Rupadhatu symbolizing human beings that have set themselves free from lust but are still bound to appearance and shape. On this terrace, Buddha effigies are placed in open space; while the other upper three terraces where Buddha effigies are confined in domes with wholes are called Arupadhatu, symbolizing human beings that have been free from lust, appearance and shape. The top part that is called Arupa symbolizes nirvana, where Buddha is residing.
Each terrace has beautiful relief panels showing how skillful the sculptors were. In order to understand the sequence of the stories on the relief panels, you have to walk clockwise from the entrance of the temple. The relief panels tell the legendary story of Ramayana. Besides, there are relief panels describing the condition of the society by that time; for example, relief of farmers' activity reflecting the advance of agriculture system and relief of sailing boat representing the advance of navigation in Bergotta (Semarang).
All relief panels in Borobudur temple reflect Buddha's teachings. For the reason, this temple functions as educating medium for those who want to learn Buddhism. YogYES suggests that you walk through each narrow passage in Borobudur in order for you to know the philosophy of Buddhism. Atisha, a Buddhist from India in the tenth century once visited this temple that was built 3 centuries before Angkor Wat in Cambodia and 4 centuries before the Grand Cathedrals in Europe.
Thanks to visiting Borobudur and having supply of Buddha teaching script from Serlingpa (King of Sriwijaya), Atisha was able to improve Buddha's teachings after his return to India and he built a religion institution, Vikramasila Buddhism. Later he became the leader of Vikramasila monastery and taught Tibetans of practicing Dharma. Six scripts from Serlingpa were then summarized as the core of the teaching called "The Lamp for the Path to Enlightenment" or well known as Bodhipathapradipa.
A question about Borobudur that is still unanswered by far is how the condition around the temple was at the beginning of its foundation and why at the time of it's finding the temple was buried. Some hypotheses claim that Borobudur in its initial foundation was surrounded by swamps and it was buried because of Merapi explosion. It was based on Kalkutta inscription with the writing 'Amawa' that means sea of milk. The Sanskrit word was used to describe the occurrence of disaster. The sea of milk was then translated into Merapi lava. Some others say that Borobudur was buried by cold lava of Merapi Mountain.
With the existing greatness and mystery, it makes sense if many people put Borobudur in their agenda as a place worth visiting in their lives. Besides enjoying the temple, you may take a walk around the surrounding villages such as Karanganyar and Wanurejo. You can also get to the top of Kendil stone where you can enjoy Borobudur and the surrounding scenery. Please visit Borobudur temple right away...
Siung Beach
It is located in Purwodadi Village, Tepus sub district, about 35 kilometers from Wonosari City with asphalt road to the beach. Siung beach lies between two step mountains which have a specific cliff, it's very suitable for rock climbing and this is heaven for climbers because they have at least 250 climb ways with beautiful sea panorama, it's nice rock climbing with rumbling waves and fresh sea wind blow. In this area ever to organize Asian Climbing Gathering that followed by 80 participants from 15 Asia's Countries, namely Thailand, Japan, China, Malaysia, etc. There are terrasering farmlands that surrounded by a habitat of primates (monkey with long tail).
Yogya Kembali Monument, The Track of Six-Hours Occurrence in Yogyakarta
1 March 1949, 06.00 a.m.
Yogyakarta City Center
The sound of serene signaling break time sounded from the Dutch defense post. Under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Suharto, Commander of Brigade 10 of Wehrkreise III area, an attack to the Dutch defense was started after getting an agreement from Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono IX as initiator of the attack. The Dutch troop that since the Dutch Military Aggression II in December 1948 was distributed to small posts was separated and weakened. During six hours, Indonesian National Army succeeded in occupying Yogyakarta, after hitting the Dutch troop. Right at 12.00 in the afternoon, as it was planned, all Indonesian army drew back from the city center when the Dutch support came; total loose at the Dutch side.
Indonesia Had Been Independent
This battle known as Serangan Umum 1 Maret was initial authentication to the international world that Indonesian National Army still had power to fight and to state that the Republic of Indonesia still existed. This was triggered by the capture and the exile of Bung Karno and Bung Hatta to Sumatera setting propaganda that the Republic of Indonesia had not existed.
This news about the six-hour attack was then sent to Wonosari, continued to Bukit Tinggi, then Burma, New Delhi (India), and finally in the main office of the UN in New York. With this news, the United Nations that considered Indonesia to have been independent compelled the execution of KTN (Komisi Tiga Negara / Commission of Three Nations). The meeting held in Des Indes Hotel Jakarta on 14 April 1949, where Indonesia was represented by Moh. Roem and representatives of Netherlands led by Van Royen, resulted in an agreement signed on 7 May 1949. This agreement was later called Roem Royen Statement. In this agreement Netherlands was compelled to withdraw its troop from Indonesia, and to return President and the Vice President, Soekarno-Hatta to Jogja. Finally on 27 December 1949 Netherlands officially handed over the sovereignty of the Republic of Indonesia.
Implied and Explicit Meaning of History Hallmark
In order to commemorate the struggle history of the nation, Yogya Kembali monument was built on 29 June 1985. The placement of the first stone of the 31.8 meter-high monument was done by HB IX after planting buffalo head as traditional ceremony. Four years later, on 6 July 1989, this building was finished. The opening was done by President Soeharto by signing the inscription.
The monument that is located in Jongkang village, Sariharjo Sub-District, Ngaglik District of Sleman Regency is of a mountain shape, symbolizing fertility and preservation of pre-historical ancestor's culture. The location of the monument was based on local culture that is located on imaginary axis connecting Merapi, Tugu, Sultan Palace, Panggung Krapyak, and Parang Tritis. "Macrocosmic Axis or the Great Axis of Life", as Gunadi told YogYES. The imaginary point in the building standing on 5.6 hectare land can be seen on the third floor where the flag pole is standing.
The name Yogya Kembali that means Yogya Returns symbolizes the return of the function of Indonesian Republic Government and historical hallmark of the Dutch troop withdrawal from Yogyakarta as the capital on 29 June 1949 and the return of President Soekarno, Vice President Mohammad Hatta and other officers on 6 July 1949 to Yogyakarta.
From Aircraft Replica to Quiet Room
Entering the monument area that is located about three kilometers north of Jogja city center visitors will be welcomed by replica of Cureng Aircraft close to the east gate and replica of Guntai Aircraft close to the west entrance. Stepping up the podium at west and east sides, visitors can see two wheeled-machine guns complete with the seats, before stepping down to the open space in front of the foot of the monument mountain. At the south end of the yard stands a wall containing 420 names of the strugglers who died between 19 December 1948 and 29 June 1949 and the poem entitled Karawang Bekasi by Chairil Anwar that is intended for unknown patriots.
The monument is surrounded by fish pond that is divided by four alleys going to the main building. West and east alleys connect to the entrance of the first floor that consists of four rooms presenting at least 1,000 collections of the attack on 1 March, the struggle before the independence until Yogyakarta became the capital of Indonesia. Uniform of Student Military and the sedan chair used to carry the Great General Sudirman are kept there. There is also the main meeting room, which is located adjacent to room I. This rounded room of 25 meter diameter is a functional room that is rented for seminar of even feasts.
North and south alleys are connected to the stairs leading to the second floor at the outdoor wall that circles the building that is carved with 40 reliefs picturing the struggle of Indonesian nation from 17 August 1945 until 28 December 1949. Some historical events such as physical struggle and diplomacies since the proclamation of Indonesian independence, the return of the President and Vice President to Yogyakarta and the formation of People's Security Army are pictured in the relief. While in the building, there are 10 dioramas encircling the building and picturing situations when the Dutch troop attacked Maguwo on 19 December 1948, 1 March attack, Roem Royen Statement, and ceremony of Independence Day on 17 August 1949 in Gedung Agung Yogyakarta.
The uppermost floor is a round, quiet room with a flag pole with the red and white flag on it at the center of the room, and relief of a fist on the west wall symbolizing physical struggle and diplomacy struggle on the east wall. The Garbha Graha room functions as a place to say prayers for the heroes and remember their struggle.
By far, the history of the nation struggle is heard only from the history teachers at school, or from the story told by the grandfather to his children in law. Yogya Kembali monument gives clearer description of how the independence was achieved by looking at the dioramas, carved reliefs or collection of clothes and weapons used by the strugglers of the independence. One place that will satisfy your desires of knowledge about the road that Indonesian nation had to take to get its independence.Prambanan
Prambanan temple is extraordinarily beautiful building constructed in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung. Soaring up to 47 meters (5 meters higher than Borobudur temple), the foundation of this temple has fulfilled the desire of the founder to show Hindu triumph in Java Island. This temple is located 17 kilometers from the city center, among an area that now functions as beautiful park.
There is a legend that Javanese people always tell about this temple. As the story tells, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues only in one-night time. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to look like morning had broken. Feeling to be cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.
Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva temples. Those three temples are symbols of Trimurti in Hindu belief. All of them face to the east. Each main temple has accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandini for Shiva, Angsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are 2 flank temples, 4 kelir temples and 4 corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.
Entering Shiva temple, the highest temple and is located in the middle, you will find four rooms. One main room contains Shiva statue, while the other three rooms contain the statues of Durga (Shiva's wife), Agastya (Shiva's teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva's son). Durga statue is said to be the statue of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend.
In Vishnu temple, to the north of Shiva temple, you will find only one room with Vishnu statue in it. In Brahma temple, to the south of Shiva temple, you find only room as well with Brahma statue in it.
Quite attractive accompanying temple is Garuda temple that is located close to Vishnu temple. This temple keeps a story of half-bird human being named Garuda. Garuda is a mystical bird in Hindu mythology. The figure is of golden body, white face, red wings, with the beak and wings similar to eagle's. It is assumed that the figure is Hindu adaptation of Bennu (means 'rises' or 'shines') that is associated with the god of the Sun or Re in Old Egypt mythology or Phoenix in Old Greek mythology. Garuda succeeded in saving his mother from the curse of Aruna (Garuda's handicapped brother) by stealing Tirta Amerta (the sacred water of the gods).
Its ability to save her mother made many people admire it to the present time and it is used for various purposes. Indonesia uses the bird as the symbol of the country. Other country using the same symbol is Thailand, with the same reason but different form adaptation and appearance. In Thailand, Garuda is known as Krut or Pha Krut.
Prambanan also has panels of relief describing the story of Ramayana. Experts say that the relief is similar to the story of Ramayana that is told orally from generation to generation. Another interesting relief is Kalpataru tree that - in Hindu - the tree is considered tree of life, eternity and environment harmony. In Prambanan, relief of Kalpataru tree is described as flanking a lion. The presence of this tree makes experts consider that Javanese society in the ninth century had wisdom to manage its environment.
Just like Garuda, Kalpataru tree is also used for various purposes. In Indonesia, Kalpataru is used as the logo of Indonesian Environment Institution. Some intellectuals in Bali even develop "Tri Hita Karana" concept for environment conservation by seeing Kalpataru relief in this temple. This tree of life is also seen in the gunungan (the puppet used as an opening of traditional puppet show or wayang kulit). This proves that relief panels in Prambanan have been widely known throughout the world.
If you see the relief in detail, you will see many birds on them; they are real birds as we can see on the earth right now. Relief panels of such birds are so natural that biologists can identify their genus. One of them is the relief of the Yellow-Crest Parrot (Cacatua sulphurea) that cites unanswered question. The reason is that the bird only exists in Masakambing Island, an island in the middle of Java Sea. Then, did the bird exist in Yogyakarta? No body has succeeded in revealing the mystery.
You can discover many more things in Prambanan. You can see relief of Wiracarita Ramayana based on oral tradition. If you feel tired of enjoying the relief, you can take a rest in the beautiful garden in the complex. Since 18 September 2006, you can enter zone 1 area of Prambanan temple. The damage caused by the earthquake on 27 May 2006 is being reconstructed. Please come and enjoy Prambanan temple.
Ngrenehan Beach
Ngrenehan beach is located at Kanigoro village, Saptosari sub district, abput 30 km at the south of Wonosari city. This beach is gulf that guarded by limestone hill and amazing panorama with the sea waves struck white sand. Visitor's could see the fisherman's activities and get various fried/ grill fishes as souvenirs. In this area about 1 km west of this beach there are Ngobaran and Nguyahan beaches. Every month when the moon is full, Hindu people do Melasty ceremony at Ngobaran beach.
Parangtritis Beach
It is the local legend that has claimed the Parangtritis Beach as the location of the palace of Kanjeng Ratu Kidul, the ruler of the Southern Ocean invisible world.
Regardless the truth, the Parangtritis beach is one of tourism sites you should visit. What is more, at the complex, there are interesting tourism objects, namely: Parangwedang, Parangkusumo beach, Gambirowati highland, Langse cave, and Syeh Belu-Belu's funeral.
The Parangtritis beach is located 27 km away to the south of Yogyakarta. Numerous transportations easily reach there. Moreover, various facilities are available in this area, namely inns, restaurant, swimming pool, bathing place, and camping area.
Swimming along the seashore is not allowed because it's waves are not too friendly. Don't worry, however, you may ride a horse or ride in a horse cart enjoying water and horizon and sunset and sand dunes and everything you want to. Along the seashore there are many stalls offering fresh, young coconuts (costing IDR 5000 each).
Not only the waves and the swishing wind that will satisfy you desire of relaxing, but the natural and supra natural tourism objects around Parangtritis beach will give you other satisfaction.
- Gumbirowati Highland
Going along the Parangtritis road on the way to the Langse cave you can reach this place. Just from this highland, you may get pleasure from the beautiful horizon of Parangtritis beach. The Gapit Hill is another place around this highland, a spot for taking off of ones in gantole. -
The Langse Cave
The Langse cave is located on the foot of Parangtritis slope. It is well known place for meditation more than similar places in this area, such as the Tapan cave, the Beji spring, and the Siluman cave. In his books, Dr. Hermanus Johannes de Graaf, a Dutch scientist specializing in Javanese review, states that the Langse cave is Kanjeng Ratu Kidul's cave where Mataram's kings often visit. Once, purportedly, Syekh Siti Jenar and Sunan Kalijaga meditated there.Coming from the Parangtritis beach you have to go for about 3 km to the east. Don't be frightened when you are on the edge of an almost vertical slope of 400 m in height. It is a wonderful challenge. The path to the location is a combination of stairs (4 separated ones), roots, and stones.
Entering to the cave, you may take a bath in one of the rooms with the so cold water from the cave spring. It contains high level of calcium, which is good for eliminating fatigue. After bathing, you are welcome for meditating. The silence in the cave will help you concentrate. The splashing wave of the south ocean is the only sound you hear there.
- Syeh Belu-Belu's funeral
This especially sacred funeral is located on a fishing hill. In particular days, there are various people making devotional visit there, especially on one night before Friday and Tuesday in Kliwon day (one of 5 Javanese days regarded as the most mystic day). -
Gumuk (the only sand dunes in South East of Asia)
There is spreading sand dunes named gumuk. The gumuk in this area is a rare phenomenon in the humid tropical area; even it is the only one in the South East of Asia area. The other places with similar sand dunes are the Arabic Saudi and the Gobi desert (China).The gumuk is a natural laboratory formed through thousands years. There are some rare gumuk shape types in Parangkusumo, namely barchans, parabolic, comb, and longitudinal dunes. Nowadays, the types are not as complete as before, but the barchans and longitudinal ones.
- Parangwedang
Parangwedang is a hot spring that is rich of mineral (the mostly elements are Na, Cl, and Mg). Uniquely, the sulfur element, the most common content of spring, is not found there.
Tips for Parangtritis visitors:
- There is another alternative route to reach the Parangtritis beach, namely Yogyakarta - Imogiri - Siluk - Parangtritis. This is 10 km longer than the common route. It offers, however, interesting sight, like a combination scene of rivers and coral reef hills.
- It is suggested that visitors should not be in green in Parangtritis beach to give respect to the local inhabitants belief. They are afraid of calamity befalling ones who are wearing green clothes.
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